inside dogs mind
inside dogs mind
I’m ready to take a baseball bat to the flood light?
Hi everyone….I HAD dusk/dawn flood lights but decided to swap one of them out for motion sensor type. I bought the one for 180* radius (Brinks) and am about out of my MIND! It either triggers over every little thing or not at all, even if I haven’t changed the sensitivity on it. I have a unique situation that I’m trying to have it bypass the backyard (with the dogs inside that with their constant running around would make the darn thing look like a giant blinking christmas light all night) I need it to monitor the driveway. It seems like it’s not reaching out far enough. Should I get a higher radius or different brand? Or do all of these things work about the same regardless of radius or brand? Thanks.
I’m delighted to read that the guy who has it is going nuts. I suffered with someone else’s flood lights blinking like Christmas lights in my bedroom window all night! I would have liked the baseball bat option!
Because you’re trying to look over your backyard, try taping off the bottom edge with black electrical tape, and turning up the sensitivity. You will essentially be custom sizing and targeting the range of motion. Once you’ve got that nailed you can work on the sensitivity.
Dog Racing Tips – Mid Track Runners And Post Position
Mid track runners can be tricky to handicap. If they break and get out good, and if there are only a couple in a race, they can breeze around the track to an easy victory. If there are several, though, and they all break at about the same speed, there can be a big shuffle when they come out of the box. It can even affect the inside and outside runners, as dogs knock other dogs into them.
When I handicap a race, I try to notice where each dog runs, keeping in mind that very few dogs only run on one part of the track throughout a whole race, no matter what the program says. True, there are a few dogs who only run the rail or only run outside, but most deviate from their chosen position sometime during the race.
Some mid track dogs go inside on corners. Some go outside on corners. This is where watching races and making notes is a big help when you’re handicapping seriously. If you know that a dog runs midtrack until it gets to the first corner, but then veers inside, it can help you visualize what’s going to happen to the inside runner next to him if they have about the same speed.
If you know that a dog runs mid track and is a closer rather than a breaker, it can help you decide whether it will have a clear path to close on the other dogs at the end of the race. If most of the other dogs run mid track too, it might be harder for the closer to get through the pack to the finish line. But if most of the dogs run inside, it might have a good shot at a win.
Although it might seem logical that mid track runners would prefer the 4, 5 and 6 box, this isn’t as important to them as inside boxes are to dogs who run inside. Most of the dogs I’ve seen that run mid track, are able to do it from almost any box, although the far inside and far outside boxes might present a challenge to them.
Mid track dogs that break, especially, seem to be able to get to the middle of the track without much trouble from the 2 through the 7 box. However, there is the rare mid track runner who won’t try as hard if it has to move from the inside of the track to the middle or from the outside to the middle. Once again, watching races and noticing little quirks like this in dogs is one of the best ways to make money at the dog track.
About the Author
To win at the dog track, you need a winning system. You can learn the basics of handicapping from a program or online, but to really make good money at the dog track consistently, you need proven Greyhound Handicapping Systems.
You can find systems, articles and tips to help you win at the dog track from someone who shares over 30 years of “going to the dogs” at http://ebnetr.com.